Garbedge Designs

Garbedge Designs

Friday, August 12, 2016

Scalloping Tutorial

Getting the Perfect Scallop

DIY Scalloping Tutorial With Pictures!

Here's what you'll need:

-A curved metal ruler OR something rounded to trace
-Chalk pen OR fabric marker
-Small detailing scissors
-Seam ripper
-Non-stretch fabric
-Steam iron
-Sewing machine

I have found that the absolute key to creating even and smoothly rounded scalloping is a metal Varied Curve Form ruler, or a metal French Curve. Plastic is not as helpful because you can't press them--something I will explain later. This is not a crucial tool, but I highly recommend it, especially for the perfectionists among us.

If you do not have one of these rulers, find a traceable object that has the size curve you desire. Spools of thread, mugs, bowls, and jars all work well for tracing. 

When deciding what size scallop you'd like to create, be sure to measure the distance you'll be scalloping so that the scallops fit exactly into the desired space, and you don't end up with a half scallop, or a tiny scallop, at the end. Then use your ruler to trace a row of even curves along the edge of the fabric you would like to scallop. Your chalk marks should be on the wrong side of your material, and your fabric should be folded right sides together. For the purposes of this post I'm going to assuming we are scalloping a hem, though neck lines and cut-outs look gorgeous scalloped as well. 

The smaller scallops you choose, the more difficult they will be to execute, to keep curved, and to keep even. Mark the intersection of each curve. This must be at least 1 inch below the edge of your fabric, or else your scallops won't be connected. 

Next, you want to stitch along you chalked line using a straight and short stitch.
Do not stitch above the marked intersections. 

When sewing scallops and other small curves--such a pater-pan collar--you want to shorten your stitch length. I generally use a length of 0.5, but you may want to adjust this depending on what fabric you are using. As you sew, be sure you are pivoting at the point where each curve intersects. With your needle in the down position (so it will hold your project in place and keep your line of stitching unbroken) lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric in order to follow your chalked line. Put the presser foot back down and sew the next curve, repeating the pivot at every intersection. 

Now snip the excess fabric. Cut about 1/4" below stitching.

Finally, make a tiny little snip directly at the crest of the point, creating a notch when the fabric is splayed. Be sure not to snip you seam. Also notch around the seam allowance of each curve. This allows the scallop to lay flat when turned right-side-out. Because the curve around the seam allowance contains more fabric than the curve of the the stitching, without the notches the seam allowance will be forced to bunch in order to fit into the curve of the stitches. This would cause bumps and small flat areas in your scallops.

Next, turn all of your scallops right side out. You'll end up with a somewhat messy looking string of scallops that looks something like this:

Now begins the finicky annoying part that is infinitely helped by your metal ruler: Flattening your scallops exactly on the seam. 


Begin by making sure each crest is fully turned out. Here is where my technique deviates from others'. If I have trouble turning out a certain corner, I take my seam ripper and rip out one single stitch around the crest of the intersection (the spot where you pivoted). As you attempt to turn your scallops, you will be able to see which stitches are preventing the fabric from laying flat. That's the one you want to rip out. This instantly allows the crest to lay flat when turned out. KEEP IN MIND that if you use this technique, you must top stitch your scallops to finish your project, otherwise your seam may pull out.

Here is a scallop that needs to be seam ripped:

Here is a scallop that is laying flat:

Now take your curved ruler and use it to push the curve out evenly. Use a steam iron to press flat while the ruler is still in the scallop. 

Lastly, top stitch the edge of your scalloping using a straight, normal length stitch.

In the end, you should have beautiful & smooth scalloping.

Forever yours with pricked fingers and pins in her mouth,

Monday, August 8, 2016

Artists & Fleas Preparation: Part One of Many

Getting ready for...

The Williamsburg Artists & Fleas Market

I spent the non-procrastinating part of my day sewing two of these zip up hoodies. And now that my eyes grow weary I am back to the procrastination game, though I had plans to sew some orders before bed.

Bed is imminent and Monday is almost over, but with the help of my precious pattern binder I did at least get something done.

The hoodie is made from a heavy gray knit that I've been saving for the right project. I lined the hood with this beautiful calico from the Buttercream collection. I found it at the Jo-Anne's in Portland, and since I am ever the sucker for florals, I bought a few yards in a couple of colors. 

My plan is to make a full size run of these hoodies, with a variety of the floral fabrics lining the hoods. So far I've just used the gray and pink one, and I am 100% into the result. 

I ordered 10 22" zippers from Wawak.
I have plenty of florals, plenty of sweatshirt fleece. 
Nickel rivets.

Ready, set, sew!

Or maybe, ready, set, snooze. 
Until tomorrow at least.

Saturday, August 6, 2016

Call of Booty: Garbedge Booty Shorts 101

First things first.

Call of Booty is an awesome pun.

Right from the very beginning, the booty shorts and ladies' boxer briefs were my top sellers. Good for everything from sleeping to wearing underneath a dress to avoid bearing your unders during wind or cartwheel season, they are also cute, and quick to make. 

My favorite variety have the fold-over waist band. We'll start with those.

This allows for an adjustable rise--meaning that depending on how you fold 'em, they can sit low around your hips or high up towards your belly button. It also makes them easy to fit, a factor that becomes especially important when buying clothes online. Because the shorts don't have any added elastic band in the waist, they won't cut into the fleshier parts of the hips. Still snug and firm around the waist, the fold-over waist band adjusts to fit just right. 

Then of course there is this classic:

The Drawstring 

This waistband allows for some of the same flexibility the fold-over waistband does, also adding an extra little flare. While the drawstring shorts can't be adjusted in terms of the rise, custom changes can  easily be made to the design for those who want higher waisted shorts.  


I love to make custom tweaks to your garment so that you are indeed getting exactly what you're looking for! I very rarely charge extra for custom changes--unless of course the request requires me to make an entirely new pattern, or uses significantly more materials. 

I sew my own cording for the drawstring shorts, so not only will the cord match and look just right, but it will give and stretch just like the rest of the shorts do.


Aside from the waistband, 
there are some other crucial distinctions to make, most importantly between the three styles of shorts I sell. So far we've seen only the true booty shorts. 
Here's one more, for good measure.

Next, we have the... 

Boxer Briefs. 

These are very different from the booty shorts. They have a completely different design, shape, feel, and look. These shorts are excellent loungewear, great for the gym or for yoga, wonderful under skirts and dresses, and great simply on their own. Originally, I designed these shorts by special request on Etsy. A women had written to me requesting a pair of sleep shorts that would "hold" her thighs. She was six months pregnant and terribly uncomfortable at night.  She had always been one to sleep naked or in her husband's boxers, which no longer fit her. And the naked thing, she said, was more uncomfortable feeling than any clothing. The buyer requested that there be no seam running through the crotch (at least, not one in line with the butt crack) as well as a sturdy fit that would feel secure and not bunchy.  

The result was my Ladies' Boxer Briefs, A.K.A. The Cup Your Bum and Hold Your Thighs shorts.
These are hands down my top selling item and receive nothing but rave reviews. Here's what I did: I moved the crotch seam to the sides of the legs, and added a square panel into the crotch so that the shorts are virtually wedgie proof. Because there is no seam in the crotch, they can be worn with or without underwear. The inseam is just about 6" in length, though, this can easily be shortened or lengthened by request.

Heather gray Ladies' Boxer Briefs 

Last of all there's the...


These shorts have a basic design similar to the classic booty shorts with a few crucial changes that create an adorable elastic bloomer. These shorts have a basic waistband--meaning, it's not a fold-over and it's not drawstring. Instead the same soft jersey that composes the body of the shorts extends up into a fold. Depending on the sturdiness of the fabric you choose, I do sometimes add a very soft and giving elastic into the waistband for extra elasticity.

The next feature of these shorts lots of loose gathered fabric around the booty, sides of the legs and front, creating a loose feel and that bloomery poof we all love so much. The hems of each leg are gathered into a soft jersey band, completing the bloomer shape. These shorts are particularly nice for yoga and lounging in my opinion. Because of the loose fit of the material--not to mention the wonderful stretch--they allow for a superb range of movement, yet because the hems fit snugly around the thigh, they stay in place and hide your unders and don't ride up.


Forever Yours from the Garbedge Etsy: Clothing booties since 2014.